I asked our taxi driver to take us to a beautiful temple. He did. And then he went further, and drove us through the Kiyotaki Tunnel, one of the most haunted places in Japan.
At a glance
- What: a narrow, single-lane road tunnel with a reputation as one of the most haunted places in Japan
- Where: in the mountains west of Kyoto, between Arashiyama and Kiyotaki, just past Otagi Nenbutsu-ji
- Length: legend says 444 metres
- Built: as part of the old Atagoyama Railway, whose construction began in 1927
- How we went: by taxi, straight after visiting the temple
A detour we did not ask for
We had just visited Otagi Nenbutsu-ji, the temple of the 1,200 stone statues. When we got back in the taxi, I expected to head back to the city. Instead, our driver kept going, a little further into the mountains.
What is the Kiyotaki Tunnel
The Kiyotaki Tunnel (清滝トンネル) runs between Arashiyama and Kiyotaki, in the mountains of Kyoto. It was once part of the Atagoyama Railway, whose construction began in 1927 to carry pilgrims towards Mount Atago. The railway closed in the 1940s and the tunnel became a road. To combine it with the rest of the area, see the Saga and Arashiyama guide on Kyoto’s official tourism site.
The legends say that workers died building it, and that some were never recovered. And legend says it is 444 metres long. In Japanese, the number four, shi, sounds like the word for death. 444 metres. Many people do not believe that is a coincidence.
The legends of Kiyotaki
- The traffic light: the tunnel is single lane, with a traffic light at each end. They say that if the light turns green as you approach at night, it is not the signal welcoming you in. It is the spirits.
- The woman in white: if a woman in white suddenly appears on the bonnet of your car in the dark, you do not stop.
- The mirror: there is a mirror at the entrance. Locals say you should not look into it. If you see a ghost behind you, or worse, your own corpse, you have days to live.
I did not look into any mirror.
444 metres of darkness, and a river on the other side
We drove through in the taxi, 444 metres of pure darkness. Our taxi driver was an absolute sweetheart. Halfway through the tunnel he grabbed my arm to try and scare me.
And on the other side, a rushing mountain river with a small waterfall. Hidden, untouched, completely silent except for the water.
Frequently asked questions
Is the Kiyotaki Tunnel really 444 metres long?
That is what the legend says. In Japanese, four sounds like the word for death, which is part of why the number became so famous. Some estimates put it closer to 500 metres.
Why is the Kiyotaki Tunnel said to be haunted?
Legends say workers died during its construction, and stories tell of a traffic light that turns green on its own, a woman in white and a mirror you should never look into.
Where is the Kiyotaki Tunnel?
In the mountains west of Kyoto, between Arashiyama and Kiyotaki, just past Otagi Nenbutsu-ji temple.
How did you go through the Kiyotaki Tunnel?
By taxi, straight after visiting Otagi Nenbutsu-ji. The tunnel is a narrow, single-lane road.
What is on the other side of the tunnel?
A mountain river with a small waterfall, in a quiet, green valley.
Should you go?
If you are visiting Otagi Nenbutsu-ji, it is only a short drive further. Go by taxi, during the day, and let the driver tell you the stories. The legends make it memorable, but the quiet river on the other side is what stays with you.
Would you have gone through?
